GENDERLESS (OR UNISEX) FASHION TAKES OVER THE 080 BARCELONA FASHION

Designers
15 Apr 2019 - 00:00

In the last winter 2019 edition of the 080 catwalk there was a trend that won over the rest: agender fashion. On this occasion, it isn’t about a trend that’s born from the whim or the vision of the designers and that will change once a new season is upon us. It’s more about a deeper movement that has to do with a more diverse society, who runs away from gender labels to embrace a fashion focused on the individual and the personal style, while understanding that the same design can work for men and women.
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It’s not the first time that genderless fashion walks on the Catalan runway, but maybe it is the first edition that this trend is so successful. Young and emerging brands, connected with the millennial and centennial publics, like Killing Weekend and Jnorig, presented agender designs in their collections, breaking the gender barriers and showing that urban contemporary style is not about gender but personal looks. For example, Jnorig dressed the women in maxi shirts and wide trousers while men shown tight waists, changing the gender stereotypes with grace.
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Another way to understand this trend is the one presented by 113 Maison, brand that made its debut on the 080 Barcelona Fashion runway this season with its organic fashion of imperfect feel. Despite the show was walked mainly by a feminine casting there were also men showing oversize designs that could also be worn by women. This same formula was the one chosen by Chulaap, one of the international guest designers of this winter edition, who brought African color to the Catalan runway. Men and women walked the catwalk dressed with layers and loose-fit designs, with a daring mix of colors and prints, showing that current fashion isn’t about gender but a having a personal sense of style and vision.
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Z1 and Pablo Erroz are other 080 designers that broke with gender prejudices in their collections in a trend that wasn’t born this season. Carlotaoms, twice winner of the 080 Award to Emerging Design in July 2015 and February 2016, were the first to introduce agender fashion to the 080. Their bold vision of a contemporary fashion made of genderless designs presented the same looks for men and women, in very strong collections that deserved the praise of the specialized public. They even got to have their designs on display in the museum, as part of the permanent exhibition “Dressing the body”, held at Museu del Disseny, for this contribution to the fashion of the 21st century.
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Because, agender fashion is not exactly unisex, which was born in the sixties as a cultural revolution, thanks to visionary designers such as Pierre Cardin and Yves Saint Laurent, who broke barriers and introduced men style designs in the woman’s closet and viceversa. Agender fashion is one step beyond, and it’s a phenomena of the new millennium. Now, it’s not about transgression, like in the sixties, it’s more about freedom. Agender designs are not associated with any gender, they are neutral and each individual makes them his or her own. The international brand of the moment, Gucci, is a great example of the current boom of genderless fashion nowadays. And the 080 Barcelona Fashion shows, in each new edition, that it is a movement that has come to stay.